We had realised a couple of days before that we were running out of our allotted time and would need to cycle long days to get to Bardonecchia by Saturday night.
As we were keeping relatively cool by the lakes, we decided to relax and spend a day by Lake Maggiore, without frantically pedalling across the hot, shadeless flatlands to Turin. We agreed that we would complete our journey by train.
This really took the pressure off. However, after our last train ride in France, at the start of this adventure, we vowed never to try it again!!
On our rest day we cycled a short distance to the lake and found a sandy beach through a wood and chilled for a few hours.
Our day of relaxing was soon over, and we were loaded the bikes for the last time, the following morning.
We set off before 9am, the earliest yet!
We had 50 kms to get to Novara, where we could catch a direct train to Turin.
It was a really beautiful ride following the River Ticino. It is another crystal clear river flowing from Lake Maggiore and it is the border between the Lombardy county and Piedmont. It also supplies water for irrigation so we always were following a water channel, the whole way to Novara.
The cycle path was superb and, being a Saturday, was busy with groups of Lycra clad bikers, speeding along this 30 km trail.
It was a great ride on which to finish, with only 2 km of road, as we approached the train station in Novara.
We arrived in perfect time as it was 20 minutes before the next train. Only €9 each for the 70 min journey, and €3.50 each for the bikes which lasts for 24 hrs on any train!! A bargain we thought.
Getting to the platform was awkward, and involved 2 lifts, only just big enough for one bike. Boarding the full train was not easy either and Sue had to evict a push chair from the bike stand, so we could get both bikes secured in their purpose built stand, which even included charging sockets for e bikes!
The second train from Turin to Bardonecchia was much easier to board, as it was a terminus station, so all platforms were on the same level; accessible from the end.
Our final destination, Bardonecchia, was chosen, because Valerio, our long term friend, lives there and has a large underground garage. He was therefore able to offer storage for the bikes until we return in September, for our final trip across France.
Valerio met us at the station on his e-bike and cycled to a very good pub. This newly open bar was run by 2 attractive Romanian girls, who put a plateful of salami, cheese and crisps in front of us. Such a great tradition in Italy: every time you order a drink they feed you some nibbles for free😁😁
However, this feast exceeded others by far.
Day 17
As we had opted for the train option, we had gained a day, so had a day to catch up with Valerio.
Over the years we’ve had several ski holidays in Bardonecchia since we met Valerio whilst on an 18-30 holiday in 1980 (45 years ago🤭)
Sue learnt to ski there, along with several other friends.
For me, I really wanted to cycle up to the top of the mountain to see it in its summer green rather than is winter white.
Sue had had enough biking for one trip, so opted to go shopping. Valerio made the excuse of a bad knee🥴; so I went alone. It was a real pleasure, although, even with a battery to help, it was hard work in places.
This is called Plan de Sol and is the mid stage meeting point for ski lessons in the winter. Now the ski area is covered with sunbeds bicycles and noisy cows playing constant music with their bells.
Looking down to Bardonecchia from half way up
It was great to meet Aldo, who still runs a restaurant on the mountain.
45 years ago when we were 20🤭, we used to regularly frequent his bar. One night, after skiing we had a meal at his restaurant, then we had to ski down, well oiled! Aldo helped our beginners back down the mountain by skiing backwards and holding their ski tips in the dark! So many memories. I think they were mostly true!🥴
After a welcome beer, I headed down a 9 km rocky road, passed more musical cows, waterfalls and pretty views.
I had started the ride with only 50% battery, so the last 5 km, I used mostly leg power to ensure I had enough help to climb the 100 metres to the top of the town. The total ride was 27 kms; pretty challenging at times but well worth the effort.
Our bikes were now lowered on a car lift into Valerio’s garage where they can rest in the cool for 9 weeks until we return to cycle them back to Borde Neuve.
I’m writing this in a sweltering carriage of a train with almost no air conditioning🥵Hopefully in September it will be a few degrees cooler for the return journey🤞🤞
Summary
Our Italian ride was again, very different to before. We were not specifically following watercourses so were spending lots of kms trying to avoid major roads, therefore I underestimated the distance we would need to do.
I thought it would be about 800 kms, but we did 862kms and still needed to catch a train for the last 200 kms!
Some cycle routes were great, but, like the UK, they are not joined up, so it takes time finding small roads to continue the journey enjoyably.
The Italians are very friendly and generally prices are very reasonable in the countryside, certainly less than in France generally. Prosecco was found everywhere, which delighted Sue.
The temperature was hotter than we’d hoped for, but we only had one 2 hour thunderstorm of heavy rain.
All in all, another good trip.
No more blogs until our finale in September😁👍🏼
Euro Vélo Route 6 