Days 12 & 13 Leg 4 Brescia-Bagnatica 86 km Bagnatica-Merone 80 km

As we’ve had 2 long days

Finally a cooler day forecast; such a relief to have some clouds! However they became dark quickly and we soon heard rumbling ahead.

We had only cycled about 12 kms, when we felt spots of rain. I could see we were only a few kms from the next village so we upped the power and only just made it to a Co-op supermarket with a useful outside awning, when the heavens opened.

We waited over an hour for the storm to pass, but at least Sue managed to get some supplies she needed.

It was strange to feel cool again, and we dug out our raincoats for the first time, as we set off in the light drizzle.

We followed a mapped bike trail to Lake Iseo, only to find that it was now a protected nature area and bikes were banned😡 The person we saw was fisherman who told us there was a guard ahead who would likely fine us if he saw us on bikes. We reluctantly we returned 2 kms and took the busy road route.

The annoying thing for us was it was a wide trail and very pretty, with no one else using it, but every 50 metres was another fitness contraption of various sorts. Surely a person exerting himself will disturb wild life far more than a bike going by.

Rant over!

The rest of the day was rather dull with lots of navigating through villages and towns which took a long time. Just as we arrived near the town my phone packed up so it took a while to charge it again so we could see our way to the appartment, then, as usual in Italy, to get in it takes a 3 minute what’s app video to understand out how to get into the place. Finally it was about 19:30 when were in and settled with a brew.

We then realised, it was a Monday. Like France, nowhere local was open, except, you guessed, a Pizza place🍕. It still was more than 1 km away, so reluctantly we were back on the bikes and enjoy a very good pizza, with some beer and a jug of wine.

Somehow Sue had trouble mounting the bike and next thing I knew she was lying in the gutter under her bike🤔!

Fortunately nothing more than a grazed elbow and some other minor wounds to her ankle . We were back in our room in no time to patch her up and ensure she didn’t bloody the sheets🤭

Day 13.

This was a day of extreme contrasts.

The first section was horrible. Travelling on and off cycle paths, zebra crossings, and town traffic. We’re were soon entering Bergamo. It took 2 hours to pass through😡 Often the marked route took us along small one way streets, but the wrong way😲.

Cycles are allowed the wrong way along one way streets in Italy. !! Great idea until you’re on a bike with Italian drivers hurtling towards you, taking evasive action, just in time🫣😵

Leaving Bergamo was much better; although cycle tracks were being upgraded. They can’t have been designed by a cyclist.

This colourful new route was great, except every road junction they’d added barriers to prevent motorcycles using it. Unfortunately they were so close together that you had to dismount to pass through. Result: all the cyclists used the road, even Sue!!

We were soon out of town but constantly changing course through towns and villages, which were almost joined together. No open countryside; our favourite bit.

Finally we spent 5 mins waiting at lights to cross a one way bridge over a gorge, and upon crossing we saw a beautiful river way below us. A quick glance at the map and I saw a cycle route along it. It took us along a longer route but was definitely worth it.

One of the most delightful routes we’ve cycled along, but, like all good things; it came to an end and we were back in rush hour traffic, roadworks and mayhem🥵

The route on my app tried to take us onto a motorway! The alternative bike route was closed, as was the road diversion😡😡

Finally we found an off road bit which didn’t end well, as you can see!!

We made it to our room totally exhausted!

Finally we found that all the local restaurants were closed until Wednesday😡😡😡 So yet again it was a delivered 🍕🍕🍕🍕🤭🥴

this time it was cool and leathery but the cold bottle of Rosé was delicious!